China’s ‘Forest of Sweet Osmanthus’ inspires

Story by: Tom Blazier and Louis Lee
Photos and Poetry by: Louis Lee

For several thousand years China has been a land largely unknown to foreigners, a mysterious and inaccessible country. Nowadays this image has changed as China becomes an attractive tourist destination.

The image that most represents the landscape of China is Guilin. With its fertile plains and majestic cliffs and torrential rivers, the city is on the west bank of the Lijiang River in southern China. "Guilin" means "forest of Sweet Osmanthus," in reference to the large number of fragrant Sweet Osmanthus trees that grow here. Centuries ago poets alluded to the region's beauty. A Tang Dynasty poet, Mr. Han Yu, captured the charm of Guilin in his celebrated verse:

"The river is a blue silk ribbon, and the hills, like blue jade hairpins."

While the landscape is the main draw here, the city has its own attractions. It has an urban population of more than 600,000, which contrasts with the bustle, smog and expense of traveling in China's larger cities. With an infusion of capital from the government, Quilin has modernized with many five-star hotels, big restaurants, large malls and markets, where tourists can bargain for gifts of silk, arts, crafts and miniatures. Visitors will enjoy up-to-date facilities here. Westerners may be surprised to find a section of the city has the look of a European villa, where many clubs and hotels are owned by foreigners.

For a photo gallery of Louis Lee's travels in China click here.

A tour on the Lijiang River from Guilin to the small town of Yangshuo is a major attraction. Drifting along the river past fishing boats, visitors view some of the hundreds of jagged limestone peaks that serve as a stunning backdrop for this tranquil place.

The region's climate serves to enhance the appeal of this unusual setting. Guilin is in a subtropical and monsoon zone with four distinct seasons, each displaying a different mood. Spring in Guilin is warm, with some rain. On rainy days, the rivers, pinnacles and the city can be shrouded in mist, which is especially enchanting. Summer can be hot (around 90 degrees) but a time of abundant natural beauty. In autumn, as the air cools, the hills surrounding the city are full of rich hues, forming a timeless beauty. Winter is cold and moist. It snows occasionally, with high temperatures climbing into the 50s. April through June are the rainiest months. With Guilin's ever-changing moods, it's easy to see why this setting has inspired poets, artists and writers for centuries.

While visiting Guilin, travelers will not want to miss a tour to Longji Terrace, about 50 miles from Guilin, where they will witness a marvel on high land. The spectacular terraced rice fields are not naturally formed, but were created through the hard work of the Zhuang and Yao people and other minorities who used their industrious hands and wisdom to carve terraces out of the mountain over generations.

Water is a precious resource here, and special care is taken to preserve the water from melting snow, as the region receives nearly all of its annual precipitation in winter. A verse in an ancient poem makes reference to the care in which these minority peoples used to cultivate the fields hundreds of years ago:

"Use every driblet of water and plough fields on high mountains."

There is a popular Chinese saying, "Guilin's scenery is best among all under heaven." These words will have meaning for tourists, photographers, painters and poets who are fortunate to visit here. 

IF YOU GO

Travel Packages:

• www.chinatravel.com

Attractions:

• Reed Flute Cave, Reed Flute Park (some of Guillin’s best scenery)
• The Jingjiang Princes City — a royal complex dating from the Ming Dynasty that lies near the center of modern Guilin
• Longji Terraces

Other Scenic Attractions:

• Seven Star Park
• Camel Mountain and Elephant Trunk Hill
• Piled Festoon Hill
• Crescent Hill
• Fubo Hill
• Nanxi Hill
• Erlang Gorge
• Huangbu (Yellow Cloth) Beach
• Moon Hill

CUISINE:
Guilin cuisine is known for its snacks and the use of spices, especially chili. The famous Guilin chili sauce, Guìlín làjiāojiàng used widely in cooking by locals, is made of fresh chili, garlic, and fermented soybeans, and is considered one of the city's Three Treasures. The other two of the Three Treasures are Guilin Sanhua Jiu, a variety of rice baijiu, or liquor distilled from rice; and Guilin pickled tofu.

Guilin rice noodles have been the local breakfast staple since the Qin dynasty and are renowned for their delicate taste. Specifically, the local specialty is noodles with horse meat, but this dish can also be ordered without the horse meat. Zongzi, a dumpling made from glutinous rice and mung bean paste wrapped in a bamboo or banana leaf is another popular delicacy in Guilin.